Under the Umbrian Sun: A Love Letter

There are places that leave an impression, and then there are those rare gems that imprint themselves on your heart. Tenuta di Murlo, nestled in the rolling hills of Umbria, is most certainly the latter. On my first-ever visit to Umbria, I had the immense pleasure of discovering this extraordinary estate with Calliope Collective—and it was love at first sight. From the moment I arrived at Tenuta di Murlo, I was welcomed not as a guest, but as family. Carlotta, with her luminous warmth, greeted me with the words, “Welcome to our home.” And indeed, it felt like just that.

The Murlo estate spans 14,000 breathtaking acres and has been in Carlotta’s husband Alessio’s family for over 300 years. Today, Carlotta and Alessio, along with their five children, are the heart and soul of this remarkable place. Their deep love for the land, its heritage, and the generations of local people who have worked it, is woven into every corner of the estate. It’s not simply preserved—it’s cherished.

Tenuta di Murlo is not a resort, not quite a hotel. It is something far more rare: an authentic, living estate where history, community, and nature co-exist in perfect harmony. It offers nine private villas and three charming boutique hotel rooms, each exquisitely restored with individual character and complete with their own swimming pool, Jacuzzi, outdoor fire pit, and daily housekeeping.

One standout is Villa Castiglione Ugolino—a majestic villa that sleeps up to 20 guests and includes its own private 13th-century church, still adorned with original frescoes. It’s a place where you could imagine hosting a vow renewal or an intimate wedding—surreal in its beauty, yet grounding in its sense of place.

Even in the heart of winter, the landscape is mesmerizing. Waking to birdsong, with mist drifting through the olive groves and golden light dappling the stone terraces, is a reminder that time slows down here. And what a joy it is to follow that pace.

Each day at Murlo brings the chance to engage with the estate in meaningful ways. There is a thoughtfully curated calendar of experiences—cooking classes using produce from the estate’s own gardens, horseback riding, truffle hunting, wine tastings, beekeeping, yoga, and guided hikes along ancient trails. Guests can even roll up their sleeves and work alongside the head farmer, whose reverence for the land and its bounty is palpable. It’s this authenticity—this real connection to the rhythms of life—that makes Murlo unlike anywhere else.

In 2025, the estate opened a beautiful new cookery school, a jewel in its ever-growing collection of experiences. It's a must for anyone who dreams of Italian culinary immersion. A few villas now include golf buggies for added convenience, and there’s also an estate car available for transfers throughout the property. However, there’s no Uber in these parts—which is part of the rustic charm—so I’d highly recommend renting a car. It can be prebooked and arranged to be waiting at your villa upon arrival, giving you the freedom to explore the wider region with ease.

Adding a modern touch to the experience, each guest receives access to a bespoke mobile app, connecting them directly to their villa butler. With just a tap, you can order anything you desire— from a bouquet of freshly cut flowers to a chilled bottle of Champagne or a beautifully prepared charcuterie board with wine from Murlo’s own vineyard. Service here is effortless, intuitive, and always heartfelt.

This is Italy as it’s meant to be experienced. Think Under the Tuscan Sun, only better—more intimate, more soulful, more real. You can visit Florence, Rome, or the hilltop towns of Tuscany with ease from here, but truthfully, you may not want to leave at all. I adored my day trip to Assisi, with its timeless charm and sweeping views, but I found myself eager to return to the peace of Murlo. Tenuta di Murlo is more than a destination—it’s a rare kind of sanctuary. A place where you’re invited not just to stay, but to slow down, to savor, and to feel. And as I made my way home, already planning my return, one thought stayed with me: This is not just a visit. This is a love story.